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Feather Pad Hat

Material Required:

6 to 8 feather pads
1 buckram frame
1 yd. velvet tubing
Lining and head band

How To Apply Feather Pads

Open velvet tubing and bind edge of frame (Ill. #1). Arrange and pin feather pads to frame (Ill. #2). Then lift a feather on pad and come through underside of frame with needle and thread through pad (Ill. #3). Take a small stitch, pushing needle to underside of frame. Take several stitches on each pad - lifting a feather - and be sure a stitch is taken under feather you have lifted up. Be sure to stroke gently every feather back in place that you have lifted to stitch under.(Ill. #4).

Applying Feather Pads To Brimmed Hat

Eliminate binding edge of frame. Use a bright satin or velvet bias facing. Fit facing to underside of brim, and turn bias facing over brim edge to top of frame and sew. Apply and sew feather pads to top of brim. Then pin and sew facing into head size.

Finisillng Hats

Usually a beautiful pin of brilliants is enough, and a fine veil. Line hat and finish with head band.

Pheasant Feathered Hat

Material Required:

Buckram Frame
1 square brown material or an old heavy
silk stocking to cover frame Sheet •wadding Glue
Pheasant feathers Pkg. tooth picks Silk for facing.

Covering Frame

Cover frame with a thin covering of sheet wadding (separate sheet wadding using only half the thickness). Then, cover crown and top of brim with silk stocking or brown material, (Ill. #1).

Putting Facing On Brim

Measure width of frame in widest part and cut a bias piece of silk for facing 2" wider than frame measured. Pin and stretch bias facing all around brim edge. Take facing off of hat and join ends of facing together, and machine stitch. Steam press seam. Pin facing on underside of brim with seam in back. Turn raw edge of bias silk over top of brim 1/4", and sew around brim edge, (Ill. #2). DO NOT sew through to facing. Then pull facing in around head size and sew.

Preparing Pheasant Feathers

 
First, pull feathers off the bird. Then pull all of the fuzz off each feather (Ill. #3). Pheasant feathers are of many colors and designs. Separate feathers all of one design and keep in groups. A good way to keep feathers separated is in pages of a magazine.

Preparing Long Pheasant Quills:

With a sharp knife or razor, strip quill down center on underside of feather. This makes feather pliable for curling or steaming into desired shape

Gluing Pheasant Feathers To Frame

Start gluing feathers at brim of frame. Hold feather by quill end and place a small amount of glue on underside of feather with a tooth pick. Press feather in place on frame, (Ill. #4). Lap each feather a little - running row up to crown. When first row of feathers is applied -then clip off quill ends of feathers. Apply next row, lapping feathers a little. Do about three rows and then use a feather of another design and so on, alternating every three or four inches until entire frame is covered, (Ill. #5).

Making Pheasant Feathers Into Design

Mark design on covered frame with white pencil and alternate each design with different feathers, (Ill. #6).

Trimming Pheasant Hat

Trim with jewels, quills, bows of velvet or with fancy pheasant novelties that are available in Millinery Supply Stores.

HOW TO MAKE FRAMES FOR PHEASANT HATS Buckram Frame

Lay pattern on buckram and mark around pattern on buckram and cut out. Sew frame wire around edge of buckram, shaping frame to head block -occasionally pulling in wire when necessary to round frame to fit head block. Use a button hole stitch to sew wire around frame, and join ends of wire with a wire joiner.

Felt Frame

If you have an old brown felt hat, remove all wires and head band. Then fit pattern on felt. Usually you will have to piece felt in center. Sew felt, piecing together using a furring overcast stitch, then steam. Press felt frame before wiring. Use instructions above for wiring and fitting frame. This frame only has to be bound around edge with velvet or ribbon, and pheasant feathers are glued directly to felt. No lining required, only a head band.

Material Required For Hat And Bag

7 square feet of leather 1/2 yard cotton flannel 1/2 yard taffeta for lining 1/8 yard buckram
2- 9" zippers
Tracing wheel
Leather sewing needle
Beading needles
3 strings medium sized glass beads
11/2 dozen glass leaves
3 bottles of small beads
Coarse #24 thread to match leather

Trace Tills Section And Add To Pattern At Dotted Line

  Glue

Making Frame For Leather Hat

Trace pattern on page 33. P}ace pattern on 12" square of willow and cut out willow. Wire all around edge of frame with frame wire, shaping and rounding sides of frame to fit head. Wire edge of center piece -using a button hole stitch to sew wire. Bind entire frame edge with a 1" bias strip of crinolin.

Covering Frame With Leather

Stretch leather on frame. Allow 1", and cut out leather. Clip corners of leather to fit frame and turn over frame edge and sew through frame and leather to right side using a small pick stitch all around frame, (Ill. #1). Use leather sewing needle. Cover center piece the same way, (Ill. #2). Bead tabs on frame and center top piece with large beads. (Bead heavily to match bag. )

Lining Hat

Cut leather exact size of pattern and glue to under side of frame.

Beading Frame Edge

After leather is glued on underside of hat, overcast entire edge of frame using about ten small beads to a stitch, (Ill. #3). Use bead needle to put small beads on thread. Then, transfer thread to leather needle.

Beaded Leather Bag

To Make Leather Bag

Use instructions for making wool felt bag on page 62, adding interlining to leather bag.

Cutting Bag

Cut a piece of leather 24" x 30" and fold 24" length over, making bag measure 24" long and 15" wide. Cut cotton flannel and taffeta lining the same way.

Making Pocket And Handle

Cut a piece of buckram 6" x 4" for pocket. Cover with cotton flannel and then cover with leather, allowing enough leather to turn over edge of buckram around each side and top. Turn edges of leather over buckram and glue. And then, bead design on pockets heavily, passing needle through leather and buckram and putting one large bead almost one upon another. Beading design pattern on Page 34. Then, arrange small beads on a slant for spray design. Line pocket with a piece of leather, leaving leather edges raw, and gluing leather over buckram.

Make handle 20" long and 2" wide - of buckram. Cover buckram with cotton flannel, cutting leather wide enough to turn over edge of buckram and glue, (Ill. #1). Then, line handle with a piece of leather, leaving edges raw, (Ill. #2). Glue leather over buckram on under side of handle.

Sewing Pocket To Bag

Measure center of top side of bag width. Then start at bottom and pin center of pocket to bag center. Sew pocket to bag by hand, using a pick stitch on each side of pocket, (Ill. #3). Bead design on each side of pocket using spray design. Pattern on Page 34.

Making Bag

Make a 2" box pleat on each side of bag in center, stitching 4" only on underside of box pleat. Then carefully steam and press box pleat flat. Turn bag to wrong side and stitch each end across bottom. Stitch together 2" in center and bottom of open side of bag, leaving two 8" openings for sewing in zippers.

Sewing In Zippers

Baste zippers in each opening on leather bag and machine stitch leather and zippers together. Flatten seam and cat stitch around zipper tape on wrong side of bag.

Sewing On Handle

Pin each end of handle to box pleat on underside of bag, and sew box pleat down over ends of handle.

Lining Bag

Baste cotton flannel and taffeta together and then make lining just the same as your leather bag, with box pleat, etc. Slip lining into bag through one of the zipper openings, and pin lining in place. Then turn raw edges of lining openings in, and baste around zipper. Then, slip stitch lining around zippers to bag.

Leather Hat

Lay On Fold

  This bag and hat pattern can be made of other materials like wool felt, velvet or fur, following same instructions.

How To Transfer Beading Design

Place tissue paper on beading pattern and mark design. Then lay tissue paper bead pattern on leather and trace design on leather, using a tracing wheel, to transfer beading pattern on to leather.

Leaf Hat

Material Required:

Frame - either net or buckram 5 doz. velvet leaves, or 4 bunches of leaf sprays 1 small piece of crepe, color of leaves, to cover the frame

Method Used

Cover frame with material. Then pin one row of leaves on frame, (Ill. #1). Sew leaves on frame with a tiny stitch through leaf at top, and a long stitch underneath to stem of leaf. Repeat until all leaves are used. Leaves can be arranged to point down or going around hat, or in a hilt and miss fashion.

Trimming With Fruit Or Flowers

Fruit can be mixed in with leaves, (Ill. #2),and a velvet bow for trimming . A large rose is a nice trim, or leaves can be dotted with small rhine-stones. Finish with a fine veil.

LEAF HAT WITH PLASTIC VEGETABLES Material Required

1 Buckram Frame - small
1/4 yard green silk
1 bu. peas in pod
1 bu. carrots
1 bu. green beans
1 bu. radishes
1 bu. green onions
5 bu. green foliage
1 green lining
1 head band

Making Hat With Vegetables And Leaves

Cover frame with green silk and then follow above instructions, mixing leaves and vegetables, and arranging leaves to cover stems of vegetables that have been sewn on. Arrange and sew vegetables so they will stand up.

Starched Lace Hat

Material Required:

Buckram Frame
2 yds. 5" lace appliqué
1 yd. velvet tubing

Method Used

Fit lace to frame, clipping where necessary. Pin lace all around brim edge. When lace is perfectly fitted to frame, sew lace where it has been clipped using an overcast stitch. Be careful not to sew through frame.

Remove lace from frame and dip into liquid starch (direction for making starch below). Squeeze starch through lace thoroughly. Wring out extra starch. Lace should be damp with starch, but leave none in spaces. Place lace back on frame and stretch lace to fit frame. Pin lace around edge of brim, (Ill. #1). Allow lace to dry on frame, then remove lace from frame. Slip wire through velvet tubing. Fit around brim edge, join wire. Pull velvet tubing tight over wire and sew ends together. Pin tubing to facing and carefully slip stitch to lace.

Finish with ribbon band inside crown, pulling ends of ribbon through lace in back for trim.

Directions For Making Starch

Dissolve 1/4 cup starch in 1/2 cup cold water. Boil 1 1/4 cups of water, remove from flame, and then slowly stir the starch mixture into boiling water --stirring constantly. Place back on flame until it thickens. As soon as starch is cool enough to handle, dip lace into starch.

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