Crownless Brim Hat Made Of Chicken Wire Net

Material Required:

3 yds chicken wire (wide width)
4 1/2 yds. velvet tubing
2 bunches lilacs
1 velvet head size clip
1 pkg. glue on rhinestones
3 yds. 1" satin back velvet ribbon
Sizing and narrow head band ribbon

Method Used

Cut chicken wire into two 11/2 yard lengths. Match diamond openings in net - for brim. Pin chicken wire with push pins to flat side of brim block edge, lapping ends of net over. Match diamond openings and tie-tack, (Ill. #1). Steam net while pulling into headsize, (Ill. #2). Smooth out all wrinkles and pin net around headsize. When net on brim is dry, size net with a light coat of sizing and let dry on block.

Wiring Brim

Put 3 wires on under side of brim. Run wire through velvet tubing - measure wires to fit brim, starting 1" from brim edge (Ill. #3). Join wires with wire joiners, and join and finish ends of velvet tubing. Remove net brim from block - pin net to headsize clip, and sew to clip. Cut off some of the excess net around headsize. Then, pin velvet-covered wires on net facing about 2" apart, and slip stitch wires to facing.

Trimming And Finisillng

Measure top of head from side to side and from back to front. Cut 2 pieces of velvet ribbon and sew ribbon to velvet head band. One piece from back to front, and one piece from side to side, (Ill. #4). Tack velvet pieces together on top of crown, and finish with a small cluster of lilacs. Arrange sprays of lilacs on brim top, pulling some of the buds through openings in net to facing side and tack. Draw several strips of velvet ribbon on brim and finish with velvet bows. Sew head band around headsize to finish raw edge of net. Glue rhinestones on lilac flowers and buds.

Triple Brim Organza Hat

Material Required:

Buckram frame with brim
1/2 yd. taffeta to match organza
1 sheet of sheet wadding
1/2 yd. crinoline
11/2 yds. organza

Padding Frame

Remove crown from brim (but mark front and back of frame first). Apply sheet wadding top and facing of brim, and sew around brim edge and head size. Do not turn padding over brim edge, leave a raw edge around brim edge on both top and facing, (Ill. #1). Be sure padding is free of all wrinkles, then cover crown top and side crown with padding.

Covering Frame With Taffeta

Cover top and facing of brim with taffeta (Ill. #2). Cut a 1" bias taffeta strip and bind brim edge. Cover crown and bind bottom of crown with a bias taffeta strip, (Ill. #3).

Covering Brim With Organza

Cover frame top and facing with organza, leaving a raw edge around brim edge. Finish brim edge with a 3" bias strip folded lengthwise and pressed, (Ill. #4). Place center of this fold on brim edge, stretching and pinning until fold fits brim edge, then join bias ends and press again. Pin center of fold back on brim edge and slip stitch each side of fold, (Ill. #5).

Making Tiers Of Organza

Place a square of crinoline on hat and make a crinoline pattern of brim - make pattern 2 1/4" larger all around than buckram brim. Lay this pattern on the organza on the bias and cut out as many tiers as you want. Keep tiers basted to the crinoline until you have bound each edge with bias fold, (Ill. #6). If you want the tiers graduated, make first tier same size as pattern - then cut 1/4" off each remaining tier edge before binding. Cut 1 1/2" bias strips to bind edge of each tier. Pin bias strips on the edge of each tier. Join bias strips on the bias and fold lengthwise and press. Sew raw edge of strip around raw edge of tier - then turn edge of bias strip over this raw seam and slip stitch, being careful stitches do not show through on top.

Sewing Tiers Around Headsize

Pin organza tiers on brim and sew tiers around headsize, (Ill. #7). Then, sew crown and brim together, (Ill. #8).

Covering Crown With Organza Folds

Cover crown with 1" bias folds. Starting at bottom of crown (Ill. #9), sew folds around crown, lapping each row 1/4" over the previous fold until top of crown is reached. Then, clip a tiny hole in top of crown and slip end of last fold through to underside and sew (Ill. #10).

Trimming Hat

A large rosette made of organza and placed in front between one organza tier near brim edge has a stunning effect.

Use combs in head band or a wire anchorage in headsize to secure hat to head, making a large hat more comfortable.

Hat With Brim Of Net Layers Or Stretched Net Double Brim

Maline or nylon net is folded double or triple into 18" widths. Each net brim takes about 1/2 yard of net. Many net layers make a beautiful hat; however, the amount of layers can be your decision.

Material Required

1 brimmed buckram frame
1/2 yard material to cover frame About 5 yards of maline – or
2 1/2 yards of nylon net folded triple
Lining and head band

Cutting Pattern

Separate crown and brim and make a paper pattern of brim. Then, place this pattern on paper and extend brim edge 2" to 2 1/2" on pattern. Cut out pattern and use this pattern to cut net brims.

Covering Frame And Adding Net Brims

Cut out material using first pattern you cut and cover frame. Then cut out net brims, using larger brim pattern, and pin each brim around headsize and sew to headsize. Net brim edges are left raw. Cover crown with material and add bias net folds or cover with plain net. Slip crown over brim headsize and pin crown in place. Then, sew brim and crown together. Finish around crown with a fold of net. Line •and put head band in headsize.

Hand Fold Chiffon Hat

Material Required:

1-1/2 Yds. chiffon. Buckram frame. Lining and headband. Trimming of jewels or small ornaments of your choice.

Cutting Cillffon Into Folds:

Fold one corner of chiffon as if you were going to cut a bias (Ill. #1). On this bias line, roll chiffon (Ill. #2) in a 2" roll until all chiffon is rolled (Ill. #3). Then measure, mark and cut chiffon every 2" across roll (ILL. #4). This will give you 2" bias folds. Join chiffon strips on the bias and fold lengthwise to make 1" wide chiffon folds. DO NOT PRESS FOLDS.

Sewing Folds To Frame:

Bind edge of frame with a bias fold of chiffon. Then, starting in back, sew folds around bottom of frame and continue folds in one continuous piece until top of frame is reached. Lap each fold to cover raw edge on previous fold (Ill. #5). To finish fold off at top of crown, make a small hole with tip of scissors and pull end of fold through and sew to underside.

Ribbon Hat

Material Required:

3 Yds, 5" taffeta ribbon, navy blue or color of your choice.
1 Yd. narrow velvet ribbon.
Small piece of material to match
ribbon. Buckram disk frame.
2 Small bunches cherries or other fruit.

Method:

Cut taffeta ribbon into 1-1/2 yd. lengths. Make folds on both ends of each piece of ribbon. Baste each fold except last. Fold ribbon as shown in Ill. #1 and Ill. #2.

Measuring Ribbon:

First fold - 5-1/2".
Second fold - 4-1/2".
Third fold - 3-1/2".
Fold each piece of ribbon using
above measurements for loops.

How To Fit Ribbon On Frame:

Pin folded ribbon on a slant and pin to frame, fitting ribbon to disk frame and sewing front, back and side

Trimming Hat:

Divide bunches of cherries into four and sew front, back and sides where ribbon was tacked. Finish trim with narrow velvet bows.

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