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Shell Bag

Cutting Material

Lay pattern #1 on straight of material. Cut out two pieces, one for back and one for front of bag. Then lay pattern #2 on straight of material and cut out. Baste these pieces on crinoline and cut out crinoline; Fold pattern #2 back 2" in center as shown by dotted line on pattern. Cut two pieces for handle. Cut a straight piece of material 31 1/4" x 3" for facing top of bag. Cut lining for bag same as above, eliminating handle and facing.

Making Handle

Lay a piece of buckram between felt pieces - cut for handle (be sure buckram is slightly narrower than felt strips). Baste these strips together and machine stitch 1/8" from edge (Ill. #1).

Assembling Bag

 
Baste pieces #1 to piece #2 bottom of bag, and machine stitch (Ill. #2). Then place a roll pad on underside of seam and carefully steam press seams open on each side of bag. Turn bag to right side and baste handle to center back of bag and machine stitch (Ill #3). Then baste facing around top of bag and machine stitch (Ill #4). Turn facing over to inside of bag and sew to crinoline. Remove bastings around top of bag. Sew button on front of bag and cut button hole in end of handle to fit button. Machine stitch all around button hole, leaving-edges raw.

Lining

Baste lining pieces together and follow same instructions for assembling bag. Fit zipper in top of lining and machine stitch to lining. Put lining in bag and sew lining to bag under zipper using a small slip stitch.

Pattern For Bottom Of Bag

Use bottom of bag pattern for handle of bag. Turn pattern back 2" in center when cutting handle.

Felt Pattern Hat

Material Required

1 - 14" or 16" fur felt hood
Head band ribbon
#40 thread to match felt

Cutting Out Felt

Pin pattern on felt, (Ill #1). . then, mark all notches (on pattern) on felt hood with thread, and mark all around pattern (with tailor's chalk or pencil) on felt. Remove pattern and cut out felt on lines marked. Seams are included in pattern.

Sewing Felt Brim

Baste brim pieces together as marked. Stitch seams and steam press open. Then, baste each side of seam down and machine stitch close to seam on right side. Cut off excess felt on each side of seam. Baste crown and brim together and machine stitch. (Ill #2).

Steam Pressing Hat

Turn hat to wrong side - use a round pressing pad under seam, joining crown to brim. Carefully steam press this seam open, (Ill #3), then baste each side of seam down and machine stitch both sides of seam close to seam on right side. Cut off excess felt on seams.

Stitch Butterfly Trimming

By hand or by machine you can sew row after row of stitching, (Ill. #4), following line of butterfly. If you have enough felt you can cut out two of each size butterfly and glue them together for a trim that will stand up better. Place trimming on hat and sew in place.

Finisillng Hat

Turn felt brim up 1/8". Baste and steam press felt - around headsize remove bastings and sew a swirled head band around headsize. Fur felt hats are not lined. (Ill. #5)

This hat can be made of velvet, silk or any heavy fabric. However, with fabric a layer of crinoline must be used under each piece of the pattern, and then sewn together. When this hat is made of fabric it must be lined, and lining is made from same pattern as hat

FELT PATTERN HAT TOP

Wool Fabric Cloche With Draped Crown

Material Required

3/4 yard fabric
3/4 yard foundation felt
Lining and headband

Cutting And Sewing Crown

Use pattern on page 75 . Lay pattern on felt. Mark front and back and sides on felt. Baste felt to wrong side of fabric and cut out. Cut a strip of felt 5" wide and 2" longer than your head size. Baste felt to wrong side of fabric on the bias, stitch as Ill. #1. Join together on the bias and stitch seam. Steam and press seam open.

Mark front and back and sides of side crown with seam in back on wrong side. Match and pin top and side crown markings. Baste together and stitch (Ill. #2). Baste seam down on both sides and steam press on wrong side using a small pad on right side.

Cutting And Sewing Cloche Brim

Use pattern for brim on page 75. Lay pattern on felt and cut out. Then lay felt on wrong side of fabric on the bias and baste felt and fabric together and cut out. Lay fabric side of brim on right side of material on the bias and cut out. Baste three pieces together around brim edge and machine stitch (Ill #3). Trim seam and open brim and join together in back, (Ill #4), taking in or letting out seam to fit your head. Turn fabric of brim over felt side and baste edge of brim and machine stitch brim l/8" from edge. Then, baste around head size. Steam and press brim. Start 1/8" from brim edge and stitch rows of stitching on brim 1/8" apart to headsize. (Ill. #5).

Joining Crown And Brim

Turn side crown under 1" and pin to brim. When adjusted, slip-stitch crown to brim. Pull side crown down on one side into folds and tack. Trim with a ribbon ornament or pin (Ill. #6).

Wool Fabric Bag

Material Required

3/8 yard wool fabric
1/8 yard crinoline
1/4 yard taffeta lining
1 sheet of sheet wadding
1/2 yard of large cord
1/4 yard buckram
1- 11" purse Facile Fastner
2 plastic rings - size of a quarter

(Facile Fastner can be purchased at Marshall Field & Co. notion dept.)

Covering Bag

To cover foundation with wool fabric, use foundation pattern for cutting covering for bag, but allow 1/2" all around pattern. Cut material for sides 25 1/2" long and 9" wide. Join ends and press seam open. Stitch bottom piece as shown (Ill #1). Fit side piece around bottom piece - baste together. Machine stitch and press seam using a pad on underside. Slip over foundation, turn over and sew covering around top of foundation.

Making Tabs For Bag Handle

Make two strips 5" long and 2" wide - fold length-wise, turn in raw edges and stitch (Ill #2). Slip these pieces through plastic loop and adjust and pin to each end of bag. Then sew to bag (Ill #3).

To Make Handle

Cut a strip of material 16" long and 2 1/2" wide. Seam together - turn to right side and pull cord through to pad handle. Slip handle ends through plastic rings, turn ends up on handle and sew (Ill. #4).

Lining Bag

Cut lining same size as foundation and follow directions, for covering bag. To make lining, make two 10" x 1 1/2" grooves with open ends at top of lining for fastener to slip into. Slip-stitch lining around top of bag. (Ill. #5).

Making Cuff On Bag

Double a piece of crinoline 4" x 27" and cover with material. Stitch rows of stitching 1/8" apart from bottom to top of cuff. Press cuff and sew to top of bag (Ill. #6). Insert Facile Fastner. (Turn cuff down on bag over stitching)

Wool Fabric Bag Pattern

TO MAKE BAG FOUNDATION Bottom Of Bag

Cut pattern for bottom of bag. Lay this pattern on buckram and mark around pattern on buckram with pencil. Cut out buckram and wire this piece around edge -with frame wire and use a button hole stitch.

Sides Of Bag

Then, cut a piece of buckram 25 1/2" long and 9" wide - lap ends 1/2" and sew together. Then, overcast this piece to buckram bottom piece. Cover all with sheet wadding.

Bag Cuff

Double a piece of crinoline and measure a strip 4" x 27" Lap piece to fit top of bag.

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