Several Ways To Finish Brims

Double Bias Fold On Brim Edge

For a double bias fold, cut material 2 1/2" wide and stretch center of fold around brim edge, pinning fold as you stretch. Join ends of fold on the bias. Fit a wire for both top and facing, and turn raw edge of fold over wire 1/4" and pin fold to brim. Then, sew fold on brim top with a long and short stitch under wire. Then, turn raw edge of fold on facing over wire 1/4" and pin fold to brim and sew under wire. Wire on facing must be exactly under wire on top. So, when sewing fold on facing, stitches can- be taken through fold on top and be concealed under wire.

Soft Cillffon Bias Fold On Brim Edge

Cut 2" chiffon bias fold and baste to a crinoline bias fold. Fold double and fit raw edges of fold around brim edge. Open fold and join ends together on the bias. Pin one raw edge of fold on top edge brim and sew. Then pin other raw edge on facing brim edge and sew. Then fit frame covering on brim top and fold edge over wire - pin over raw edge of fold and sew under wire. Repeat for facing. This fold makes a soft flattering hat.

Sillrred Bias Fold On Brim Edge

Cut a 3" bias fold long enough to fit around brim once and a half. Join piece together on the bias. Turn raw edge on each side over 1/4" and machine stitch a 1/4" groove on each side of strip. Run a shirring cord through these grooves. Fit center of fold on edge of brim that has been covered. Pin fold center to brim edge and pull up cords and tie. Then sew each side of fold to brim under cord shirring.

New Ideas For Finishing Felt Brims And Crowns

Finisillng Felt Brim Edges And Of Bottoms Crowns

Cut a paper pattern, either scallops or points. Pin pattern to felt brim edge and cut out. Use the same scallop or point pattern to fit bottom of crown and cut out. Sew crown to brim around circles or points, using a furring stitch„ Edge of brim can be left raw edge or machine stitched.

Making A Block Out Of A Buckram Frame For Blocking Felts

Size a buckram frame thoroughly, then cut gummed paper tape into 2" squares and glue to frame one at a time until entire frame is covered. Then size again. Repeat at least four times, gluing layers of gummed tape and sizing each layer. Always allow sizing to dry before putting on another layer of tape. If frame has a brim, do facing of brim just the same as top of brim. When this is properly done, frame will be as firm as a wooden block, and you can use_ it for felt blocking at very little expense. Always roll your felt in a damp cloth for a while before blocking. Then, pull felt over frame block and steam and pull felt to fit block. Use a blocking cord and push pins around bottom of frame. Let felt dry on block.

Hat Of Fur And Satin Combination

Hat can be made of any fur and any combination of colors. This hat is made of persian lamb and black satin with a rhinestone ornament. Two disc frames are used.

Material Required

Fur - about 9" square
Half of an 18" square of satin
Linings and head band
1 frame - 8" disc
1 frame - 6 1/2" disc

Covering Disc With Fur

Cover larger disc frame with fur. (Sewing fur instructions are given in the Beginners Book. ) Bind edge of fur with cotton tape,(Ill #1), and pull tape into frame headsize and sew with heavy thread and a firm stitch (Ill. #2).

Covering Disc With Satin

Cut satin square in half on the bias, (Ill #3). Fit bias satin edge around smaller disc frame edge and drape in folds to fit disc, (Ill. #4). Then sew to under side of disc.

Joining Fur And Satin Disc

Line fur disc and then lap fur disc over satin disc about 2". Put on your head and adjust until discs fit your head. Then sew together and sew jeweled ornament on. Line last disc and put in head band.

Gold Metallic Cloth Hat With Fur Trim

Material Required

1/2 yard buckram
1/2 yard crinoline
1/2 yard metallic cloth
Wire and joiners
Fur enough to make 2" fur ball

Cutting And Making Frame

Trace and cut out pattern. Place pattern on buck· ram, mark around pattern, cut out buckram, Follow directions on pattern to steam and block crown part of frame. Then, with a button hole stitch, sew a wire all around both sides of frame and join wire with a wire joiner. Cut a 1" bias strip of crinoline (stretch crinoline), bind edge of frame all around - over wire.

Covering Frame

Lay pattern on the bias on metallic cloth. Allow 1/2" all around pattern when cutting out material, then pin material on frame and sew material all around frame using a back stitch (Ill. #1). Cut a 1 1/2" wide bias strip of metallic cloth and long enough to go around frame edge. Lay right side of bias strip to right side of cloth on frame. Sew bias fold with a back stitch all around frame, (Ill. #2). Turn fold over edge of frame - pin. Sew fold to underside of frame, with a small stitch on top and a long stitch on inside of frame.

Line Frame

Use pattern to cut lining exact size of pattern. Steam and block lining as you did frame. Pin lining inside of frame and sew lining to frame. Sew head band ribbon all around inside of frame, then match markings on long tabs and crown and sew long tabs to crown. (Be sure frame is rounded and shaped to fit head). Then, sew on fur trim.

Fur Trim

Cut fur into a circle (size of circle depends on size of piece of fur). Sew a piece of cotton tape around edge of fur circle (Ill #3) using an overcast stitch. Then gather other side of tape. Stuff fur ball with cotton, (Ill #4), and draw thread tight on gathered tape and fasten thread. Adjust fur ball to a becoming angle and sew to hat.

Pique Hat And Vestee

Tills hat is made to slip off frame so it can be laundered; also, same frame can be used for many different changes to match various vestees you may want.

Material Required For Hat And Vestee

1 yard material
1/2 yard narrow elastic
2 large snaps

Cutting Material

Use same pattern as for frame to cut material, allowing 1/2" all around pattern when cutting material.

Method

Pin top piece of material on wrong side to top of frame. Fold 1/2" back on each side of material for side crown. Then, pin wrong side of material for side crown to top crown piece all around, lapping material over in back. Baste and machine stitch side crown to top (Ill. #1). Remove bastings and press this seam open. Now baste each side of this seam down and machine stitch each side real close to seam, (Ill. #2). Trim off excess material on each side of seam.

Finish Bottom Of Side Crown

Cut 1 1/2" bias fold of material and sew to lower edge of side crown (Ill #3). Make a 1/4" groove and run a narrow elastic through this groove to fit bottom of frame (ILL #4). Sew Elastic (Ill #5). Sew a snap on this bias piece, slip cover on to frame, and snap sides together (Ill. #6).

Trimming - Butterfly

Make a butterfly of material (Ill #7) and snap it on to slip cover on hat (Ill #8).

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