How To Make Frame For Pique Hat

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Material Required

1/2 yard buckram Frame wire
Small piece of Crinoline Coarse thread #24

How To Make Buckram Frame

Lay pattern on buckram and mark all around pattern on buckram with a pencil. Mark back and front of top crown.

Wiring Top Crown

Wire all around edge of top crown, lapping wir 1" to finish and use a button hole stitch, having stitches about 1/4" apart.

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Wiring Side Crown

Lap back of side crown at notches and sew together. Then sew top of side crown to crown top that has been wired. Then wire bottom of · side crown and join wire with a wire joiner.

Binding Wired Edges Op Frame

Cut 1 1/2" strips of crinoline. Stretch bias strips in length, then bind around top edge and around bottom edge with these bias strips.

Pique Vestee With Butterfly Trim

Pattern for pique vestee on page 88 This vestee can be made of any soft material, and is especially nice when made of a gay material like polka dot silk - -with a matching hat - and worn with a plain colored dress or suit.

To Make Vestee

Fold a piece of material double and pin pattern on material and cut out. Join these pieces together. Then pin pattern to a doubled piece of material again and cut out and join these two pieces. Press seams open. Now, with right sides together, baste all around edge, except between notches. Then stitch on machine. Remove bastings and turn Vestee to right side through opening between notches that you have left open. Push a blunt end of scissors or pliers into corners to help open them for turning. Turning raw edge in on each side of opening and baste together all around Vestee edge. Then machine stitch close to edge. Remove bastings and press. Sew on snap.

Ornament (Butterfly Trim)

Fold material double and pin pattern to material. Cut 1/4" larger than pattern. Lay pattern on a piece of crinoline and cut crinoline the exact size of pattern. Now baste one piece of material around edge of crinoline, turning material over crinoline 1/4". Now turn the other piece in 1/4" with wrong sides together. Baste all around and then machine stitch. Gather down center of butterfly and cover center with a 1/2" bias fold 2" long. Sew to back side of butterfly. Then tack to Vestee.

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Folding Travel Hat

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This is a fine hat for dressy occasions. When traveling, it can be packed flat. It is a very flattering hat as the brim bends to many different arrangements.

Material Required

3/4 yard velvet
1/2 yard crinoline
11/2 yards velvet tubing Lining and head band

Directions For Making Crown

Lay crown pattern on crinoline (allow for seams), and cut out 2 of each piece. Mark each piece like pattern. Lay crinoline on wrong side of velvet, and match markings. Make a separate crown of crinoline and of velvet. Do not seam crinoline and velvet together. Baste and stitch each seam on both the velvet crown and the crinoline crown. Then steam press seams, using a pad under each seam when pressing seams on wrong side (Ill #1). Put each crown on block separately and pin crown down on block (Ill #2) and steam. Allow to dry on block. Then slip velvet crown over crinoline crown and baste together around bottom of crown (Ill #3).

Directions For Brim

Cut a bias piece of crinoline and a bias piece of velvet 46" long and 12" wide. Baste wrong side of velvet to crinoline and seam 12" ends together (Ill #4). Fold velvet double lengthwise and make 1" pleats, starting 2" from back seam about 26 pleats (Ill #5) depending on headsize. Pin and baste these pleats in and then lay brim pattern on pleated velvet. Pin and cut pleated velvet around headsize to match pattern (Ill #6). Back measures 2 1/2" - sides measure 5" - and front measures 6". Pin and baste crown and brim together - adjust to your headsize. Then cut a 1" bias strip of buckram (leave buckram raw edges) and sew this inside headsize, using a back-stitch. For trim, fit velvet tubing around crown and tie a bow, sew in place, line hat and finish with head band.

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custom fitted hat

Hat For Ship And Shore

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This hat is easy to make and can be folded flat for packing. It can be made of heavy silk, cotton pique, linen or felt. When making this hat of felt, all seams are left raw and stitched. It can also be made reversible, and the brim can be turned in several different ways.

Section A is the "outside" of hat. Sections B, C and D are stitched together to form the tri-colored inside.

Material Required

Lightweight wool felt, linen, silk, pique. Sections A and B are made of the same color, a deeper tone of this color is used for Section D, and a bright contrasting color for Section C.

1/2 Yd. any width (36" to 72") fabric or felt for Sections A and B.
1/2 Yd. any width (36" to 72") fabric or felt for Section C.
1/2 Yd. any width (36" to 72") fabric or felt for Section D.

If only Section C is done in contrasting fabric, 1/2 Yd., any width for A, B, and D. If only Section D is done in contrasting fabric, 1/2 Yd. , any width for A, B, and C. If Section A is used as the pattern for both sides of the hat, only 1/2 Yd, any width, is required.

Method

1. Cut out Section A, marking notches. Fold into a cone, matching notches. Stitch seam along back.

2. Cut out Sections B, C and D, marking notches. Join the three sections (111. #1), matching notches, and stitch along seam lines. Clip curves. Fold into a cone and stitch seam along back.

3. Turn Section A right side out so that seam is inside. Insert tri-color cone (Sections B, C and D stitched together) into Section A cone so that seamed sides of both cones are facing (EL #2).

4. Turn in brim edge of both cones about 1/4". Baste (D.1. #3), then topstitch. (If felt is used, trim off brim edge 1 /4" and topstitch raw edges
of brim together. Felt does not ravel.)

5. Fold back pointed tip of hat approximately 3 to 4-1/2", according to height of crown desired, and tack point to the crown (111. #4).

REVERSIBLE - Turn it inside out for color change

ADJUSTABLE - It can be made to fit any headsize.

custom fitted hat

custom fitted hat

custom fitted hat

Yarn Braid Hat With Beads

custom fitted hat

custom fitted hat

Material Required

1 Buckram frame
1 Skein yarn
7 Strings wooden beads
Lining and headband

Making Yarn Braid With Beads

String all beads on yarn before starting to wind yarn on gauge. String beads about 1/4" apart. Wind yarn evenly on gauge (Ill. #1), being careful that beads are not in groove of gauge. Then, machine stitch (Ill. #2) down center of the gauge, slipping off stitched braid as it is stitched, and rewinding yarn on gauge and stitching until all yarn has been made into braid.

Making Yarn Braid Without Beads

Use same method as above, eliminating beads.

Sewing Braid On Frame

Cover frame with fabric to match color of braid. Start sewing braid in back at brim edge. Sew row after row, close together, evenly, until top of frame is reached. Then pierce top of crown and pull end of braid through and tack to underside (Ill. #3).

Make a gauge of heavy cardboard, 1" wide and 8" long. Cut a slot down cent< about 1/2" from end.

Ear Warmer

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Material Required

1/2 Yd. of jersey.
30 Beads.

Method

Lay pattern on two layers of cloth and cut out. Baste and stitch together. Pull through one open end to right side. Again baste around edge (except ends) and stitch very close to edge (Ill. #1), Sew flower trim 1-1/4" apart and 1" from edge all around and another row down center, using a bead in center of flower to attach flower to hat (Ill #2). Make ties, stitching strips together and turning to right side. Attach ties to ends of hat, turning under raw edge. Baste and stitch.

To Make Flowers

Two or three colors may be used for flowers; for example, combinations of pink, rose and red, or shades of green on blue, etc.

Make a pattern of pasteboard. Double material if one color is used. Trace around pattern on material and cut out. Use chart below if several colors are used. Baste layers of material together when cutting out several colors. All flower edges are left raw.

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