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Foreword - The "Beginner's Book," HOW TO MAKE HATS, was written to teach Millinery Students the fundamentals of professional millinery. Just like any other profession, it is necessary to understand and be able to use certain methods if the final hat created is to have a professional look.

Introduction - You have learned, or can learn, the fundamentals of hat making explained in my first book, HOW TO MAKE HATS. This Advanced Book of HOW TO MAKE HATS reveals many new ideas and methods for the advanced student who wants more knowledge or is desirous of becoming a millinery teacher or professional milliner.

Custom Hat 01 - 05 - Hobbies, at one time, were not considered essential. They were regarded merely as pleasant pastimes.

With each year bringing longer life, more people are allowed to retire and find themselves with unaccustomed leisure hours at their command. To be happy it is necessary to keep these idle hours filled, and many retired people are attracted to a hobby.

Custom Hat 06 - 10 - When you have enrolled your classes and have accepted your fee, and if some of your students have to miss classes, a refund is not expected. However, try to give at least one make-up lesson. This is just a suggestion, and you will want to decide this procedure yourself.

Custom Hat 11- 15 - These little veil hats, so very popular today, are appropriate for all occasions. They are light and airy, youthful and very flattering. While you will feel almost hatless, they still give you that smart, feminine, finished dash that every well-dressed woman seeks.

Custom Hat 16 - 20 - 6 to 8 feather pads
1 buckram frame
1 yd. velvet tubing
Lining and head band

Open velvet tubing and bind edge of frame (Ill. #1). Arrange and pin feather pads to frame (Ill. #2). Then lift a feather on pad and come through underside of frame with needle and thread through pad (Ill. #3).

Custom Hat 21 - 25 - 3 yds chicken wire (wide width)
4 1/2 yds. velvet tubing
2 bunches lilacs
1 velvet head size clip
1 pkg. glue on rhinestones
3 yds. 1" satin back velvet ribbon
Sizing and narrow head band ribbon

Cut chicken wire into two 11/2 yard lengths. Match diamond openings in net - for brim. Pin chicken wire with push pins to flat side of brim block edge, lapping ends of net over. Match diamond openings and tie-tack, (Ill. #1).

Custom Hat 26 - 30 - Hats made of rat tail braid can be worn the year around. Rat tail satin braid can be had in many beautiful shades, as well as black and white. It costs about seven cents a yard.

Brimless buckram frame.
1 Yd. velvet tubing.
18 Yds. rat tail braid (all in one piece).
Pin for trim.
Lining and headband.

Custom Hat 31 - 35 - 1/2 Yd. of silk.
10 Yds. narrow straw braid,
1/2 Yd. crinoline.
1/2 Yd. taffeta lining.
Ribbon headband.

Use beret pattern on page 63. Pin pattern on crinoline and cut out. Baste crinoline to material and cut out material.

Custom Hat 36 - 40 - Old bead necklaces, etc.

Add some colored jewels that can be bought in a millinery supply house 1 bunch of small beads used to sew larger beads on frame.

16" square of willow
1" bias strips of silk or velvet to bind frame edge Frame wire
Use pieces of old felt for lining hat. 1 pair of combs.

Custom Hat 41 - 45 - Lay pattern #1 on straight of material. Cut out two pieces, one for back and one for front of bag. Then lay pattern #2 on straight of material and cut out. Baste these pieces on crinoline and cut out crinoline; Fold pattern #2 back 2" in center as shown by dotted line on pattern. Cut two pieces for handle.

Custom Hat 46 - 50 - For a double bias fold, cut material 2 1/2" wide and stretch center of fold around brim edge, pinning fold as you stretch. Join ends of fold on the bias. Fit a wire for both top and facing, and turn raw edge of fold over wire 1/4" and pin fold to brim. Then, sew fold on brim top with a long and short stitch under wire.

Custom Hat 51 - 55 - 1/2 yard buckram Frame wire
Small piece of Crinoline Coarse thread #24

Lay pattern on buckram and mark all around pattern on buckram with a pencil. Mark back and front of top crown.

Custom Hat 56 - 60 - 3/4 Yds. jersey or velvet. 4-1/2 Doz. large pearls. 1 Large tube of small beads. 1 Skein yarn.

Cut material into two strips 16" wide. Seam together and press seam open (Ill. #1). This strip measures 1-1/2 yds. Fold strip of material lengthwise and stitch together (Ill. #2). Turn strip of material to right side and press.

Custom Hat 61 - 65 - Cut a cardboard gage the length you wish tassel to be. Wrap floss or yarn over and over the cardboard; tie a thread through the upper end and cut through lower end (Ill. #1). Wrap thread around upper end several times to hold tassel together (III. #2).

Custom Hat 66 - 70 - 3/4 Yd. material.
1/2 Yd. crinoline.
Lining and headband for hat.
1/4 Yd. buckram for bag.
1/4 Yd. taffeta for bag lining.
1 Sheet of sheet-wadding.

Lay pattern on crinoline and cut one brim. Baste this crinoline to wrong side of fabric and cut out. Then lay fabric side of brim on right side of fabric again, baste all together and machine stitch all around brim edge (Ill. #1).

Custom Hat 71 - 75 - 3 yards of 108" Bridal Illusion Veiling Tiara for head piece

3 yards of 108" bridal illusion open veiling, and fold in half. Then, fold over in half again. Now, fold diagonally several times and cut straight across, starting to cut at shortest side (Ill. #1). Fold back 30" for blusher. Measure 27" on each side of veiling and mark.

Custom Hat 76 - 80 - Use silvery satin leaves sewn to a wire frame with pearl dew drops. Bow and ends are of nylon net. Leaves and net can be purchased in many beautiful shades - - also white.

2 1/2 yards nylon net
4 doz. leaves
4 doz. jewels
1 wire band frame

Custom Hat 81 - 84 - Three Months Before The Wedding

Set wedding date Engage Minister Arrange for church Engage hotel or club for reception Decide on wedding color scheme Wedding dress and veil Select your wedding attendants and their costumes Bride's attendants: Maid or Matron-¯Of-Honor; Bridesmaids, Flower Girl or Ring Bearer.

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